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HISTORIEN OM
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VERDENS SMUKKESTE VINLAND
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“Betragtet individuelt er ingen af disse elementer usædvanlige, men når de kombineres på dette specielle sted – bliver en magisk karakter sat sammen.”
Citat winemaker Elizma Visser
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VINEN KOMMER TIL SYDAFRIKA
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Sydafrika blev første gang koloniseret i 1652 da Det Hollandsk Øst-Indiske Kompagni oprettede en provianteringsstation ved Kaplandet. Det var for de europæiske søfolk at komme forbi og forsyne sig med friske råvare og mad på deres vej til Indien. Omkring år 1680-1690 kom huguenotterne også til Sydafrika. Det var efter Ludvig den 14.s ophævelse af Ediktet fra Nantes at flere franske protestanter fik valget mellem halshugning eller en ”rejse” til Sydafrika. Mange af dem der valgte rejsen var landbrugere og mange havde forstand på vin. Fra Loire bragte mange franskmænd med sig druen Chenin. (Som i dag er Sydafrikas national hvidvinsdrue) Hollænderne og Huguenotterne blev smeltet sammen til et folk – Boerne. De sad de næste par 100 år tungt på magten indtil England i 1812 besejret Napoleon og mente de havde ret til Kaplandet, eftersom franskmændene havde støttet Napoleon- og dermed jo også tabt. Englændernes overtagelse var fuldbyrdet i 1814.
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DEN FØRSTE VIN
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Den første til at lave vin i Kaplandet var Jan Van Riebeeck. Han var tidligere skibslæge for kompagniet og mente at vin var et effektivt, forebyggende middel mod skørbrud. Han havde konstateret at klimaet og vækstbetingelserne omkring Kap var magen til middelhavsklimaet, og at der burde satses på vinavel. Derfor begyndte han at eksperimentere med gæring af bær fra lokale buske med det formål at lave vin. Det lykkedes ikke, så han sendte bud hjem til Holland om at få sendt nogle europæiske vinstokke ned. Stokkene blev plantet nær Cape Town, hvor de trives fint, på trods af at kompagniets gartnere ingen forstand havde på at dyrke druer. To år gik, uden at der kom vin fra stokkene, som først skulle vokse til for at kunne yde en passende høst. Den 2. februar 1659 gik Van Riebeecks drøm i opfyldelse.
Man ved, ud fra et uddrag af hans dagbog, at man første gang pressede most fra fransk Muscadel den 2. februar 1659. ”Velsign den gode Gud, Kapdruer er presset for første gang, og den unge jomfruelige most fra fransk Muscadel sættes til gæring.”
Den 2. februar fejres stadig hvert år med en kæmpe vinfest.
I starten forstod den daværende sydafrikanske befolkning sig ikke på vindyrkning. Det ændrede sig dog med den nye kommandant Simon van der Stel. Allerede kort efter hans ankomst i 1679 udsatte han regler og krav, hvor han under trussel om alvorlige straffe påbød bønderne først at høste deres druer, når de var modne, og at lade dem gære i rene fade og kældre.
Simon van der Stel var meget fokuseret på vinens kvalitet, og han nedsatte en kommission, som skulle kontrollere at vinbønderne ikke høstede deres druer for tidligt. Allerede dengang vidste man, at det er af afgørende betydning af druerne ikke høstes for sent eller for tidligt men først når de var lige det modne de skulle være. Ligesom han havde lavet et krav om hvornår druerne skulle høstes, lavede han regler for vinfremstilling, som sikrede et højere kvalitetsniveau.
Selvom det egentlig forbød ansatte i kompagninet at erhverve kolonialejendom og drive handel, så lykkedes det for Simon van der Stel at gennemtrumfe en undtagelse. Han kunne derfor selv i 1685 tilegne sig et stykke jord sydøst for Cape han kaldte sin ejendom og navngav det Constantia.
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KLIMA
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Sydafrika ligger på den sydligste del af det afrikanske kontinent med bjerge mod det Indiske Ocean og Atlanterhavet.
99 % af vinproduktionen ligger i Cape- den sydvestlige del af landet omkring Cape Town. Kaplandet nyder godt af beliggenheden ud mod de to oceaner. Intensiteten af sommerens sollys og den sydvestlige Capes relative nærhed til ækvator burde skabe ekstreme temperaturer, som ville være katastrofale for produktionen af god vin, men selvom sommerens temperaturer i de vigtigste vin områder er høj, og druerne modnes let, er det sjældent at man rammer en for høj varme. To faktorer er vigtige for områdets temperering, -beliggenheden af de fleste Western Capes vinarealer ud til en kyst og den sydøsten vind der blæser intenst over den sydvestlige cape om foråret og sommeren. Denne strøm af vind, som nogle gange er mild og andre gange stormfulde, flyder i nordvestlig retning over vinmarker mod Atlanten. Denne vind, sammen med kombinationen af vind fra sydvest dominerer både macro-klimaet og mikro-klimaet og tillader druerne at modnes perfekt.
Sydafrika er kendetegnet af et middelhavsklima; men den kolde Benguela strøm fra sydpolen, som strømmer nordpå langs den vestlige kyst (Atlanterhavet) og den varmere Mozambique-strøm fra ækvator (Det Indiske Ocean) betyder, at de to strømme og oceaner møder hinanden mellem Cape Agulhas og Cape Point. Det resulterer i, at temperaturerne er køligere end i tilsvarende områder på samme breddegrader på den nordlige halvkugle. Til gengæld bliver det hurtigt varmt, når man kører ind i landet.
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TERROIR
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Ser man på vinområdernes placering, ligger de hovedsageligt langt kysterne, dels sydkysten fra Cape Town til Geroge samt Atlanterhavskysten fra Cape Town og godt 300km nord. Kommer man længere ind, eller bevæger sig mod Johannesburg i øst er det for varmt til at dyrke vin. Landskabet, hvor man dyrker vin, er præget af meget gamle geologiske formationer, som i dag stadig er synlige, sandsynligvis på grund af den gamle kontinentalskorpe, som findes under den sydlige og centrale del af det afrikanske kontinent. Samt den efterfølgende erosion, hvilket resulterede i stejle, foldede bjerge, der løber parallelt med kystlinjen både i nord og mod øst. De ældste bjergformationer finder man i Swartland omkring Malmesbury, som blev dannet for 980 millioner år siden og består af skifer, fyllit og sandsten, som forekommer i lommer og specielt ses i de lavere, bølgende bakker omkring Stellenbosch og Sommerset West; og desuden i de lidt højere bakker omkring og nord for Durbanville. På grund af den udprægede topografiske mangfoldighed varierer jordbunden også på samme måde, lige fra blottede stenarter på stejle skråninger til dybe, højt forvitrede gul-til rødbrune jordarter langs fjeldene i Constantia, Stellenbosch, Paarl og Wellington, samt på bakkerne i Durbanville, Malmesbury og Darling områderne.
I de lavtliggende dale og langs floderne forekommer sedimenter fra istiden, hvor der blev udvasket sand til organisk rige jordarter. Denne jordbund er generelt ikke specielt god, hvis man vil lave kvalitetsvin, men den udnyttes i vid udstrækning i de varmere indlandsområder som Breede River-dalen og langs bredden af Olifant- og Orange Rivers til vinproduktion med høj produktivitet, hvor druerne hovedsageligt er betsemt til bulkvin og destillering.
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SYDAFRIKA 1945-1990
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Sydafrika var i næsten 50 år styret af apartheid. Det vil sige, at der var total adskillelse mellem racerne. Hvide havde bedre forhold end sorte, farvede og asiater og det var de hvide der sad på den politiske og økonomiske magt. Den konsekvente adskillelse og håndhævelsen af lovene indebar brutal undertrykkelse af store grupper, fængsling, tortur, drab og anden form for vold fra statsmagtens side. Enhver, der var mistænkt for at være imod regeringens principper, kunne fængsles og tilbageholdes i op til 180 dage, før de blev stillet for en dommer, og politiske fanger kunne fængsles på ubestemt tid. Især den sorte befolkningsgruppe blev voldsomt undertrykt.
Men det var først i slutningen af 1970’erne omverden begyndte at gøre modstand mod apartheid, i form af boykot af landets eksport varer.
I Danmark opfordrer medlemmer af folketinget i 1963 danskerne til at boykotte de sydafrikanske vare men den socialdemokratiske regering var imod statslige sanktioner og flere forretninger handlede stadig med sydafrikanske varer. Det var først i 1977 at man begyndte at få øjne op for hvad der egentlig foregik og boykotten blev indført i 1980.
Da der i starten af 1990’erne igen blev åbnet op for det Sydafrikanske marked og boykotten langsomt blev afskaffet kunne flere af de større producenter som havde ”overlevet” boykotten tilbyde masser af gode modne vine fra 1980’erne. Sydafrikas vinindustri har siden apartheid gennemgået en kæmpe forvandling til en mere moderne produktion.
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BLACK EMPOWERMENT
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I dag er vinbranchens struktur ganske anderledes. Så snart apartheid og isolationisme var opgivet, rejste en ny generation af vinmagere verden rundt, hvor de med en nysgerrighed uden sidestykke sugede til sig af teknikker og inspiration. Der er investeret meget ny kapital i vinindustrien.
Siden apartheidstyret endte, har der været store forandringer i samfundet, og ”Black Empowerment” er en vigtig del af processen. Black Empowerment går ud på at hjælpe de socialt underprivilegeret sorte med en ”karriere” indenfor winemakeing. I de sidste mange 100 år har de sorte taget slæbet i markerne mens de hvide har haft det mere privilegeret job med ansigtet ud af til. Der er blevet startet flere og flere private initiativer til at opmuntre flere sorte studerende til at søge vinens vej.
Der bliver bl.a. holdt forskellige vinsmagningsarrangementer, hvor overskuddet går til de socialt underprivilegeret sorte. Et af de største arrangementer er Winemakers Guild.
Vinene udvælges igennem en lang proces, over mange smagninger samt en endelig blind smagning hvoraf de som så kommer gennem nåleøjet og som så er noget af det ypperste, bliver solgt på auktion hvert år i oktober måned.
Udover Winemakers Guild er der adskillige andre projekter som støtter og hjælper sorte til en succes i vinbranchen. En række vinproducenter har lavet et samarbejde med deres landarbejder. Det foregår således at landarbejderne får mulighed for at lave deres egen vin, som sælges under et særligt etiket med projektets navn på. Det kan være : New Beginnings, Freedom Road, Fair Valley, Thandi.
Fair Valley er et projekt der går ud på at skabe boliger til vinarbejderne i nærheden af Fairview vingården
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